April 27, 2025
Better backup lights | SwedeSpeed

Better backup lights | SwedeSpeed

Who called lol. I just took some pics close up of the backup lights, will post below. I think I had some detail in the mod thread but I’ll cover here for future reference and maybe added detail I missed about actually doing. Not quite a step by step how-to I didn’t document it that way but should be enough to get anyone handy enough through it.

I used these LED units: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075N5LTNT
I originally installed only 1 since I had destroyed the wiring on one working out fitment, I got a replacement and mounted it since.

Before/After pics:
Communication Device Gadget Plant Display device Audio equipment

Portable communications device Communication Device Telephony Mobile phone Gadget

Not DIY but the basics of how to do. This is on S60, V60 would be same concept but different trim panels and wiring routing for the hatch obviously:

  • Remove trunk trim on right side of the trunk, so you can access harness going to the right rear tail light. Some clips are hard to remove, do your best, note the “bag hanger” clip is a type you need to raise the center portion to release it. I broke it first, then saw how it worked when I got a replacement 😉
  • Find the (+) wire for the reverse light in the harness supplying the tail light. (see this thread for my saga on that: Volvo tech or anyone with VIDA wiring diagrams knowledge…. Probably best to consult wiring diagram for your car, colors could be different. Or simply test them which is what I had to end up doing, helpful if you got a pin probe for your DVM if you got one. You can’t access the plug to tail light without dropping the bumper.
  • FYI about 2020 the taillights went to “LIN” versions (network/data operated, not powered circuits operating individual LED/bulb. I have no idea about tapping reverse with those, may be more difficult)
  • You are tapping your own automotive wire here (I use a 24ga TXL automotive wire) to run into the trunk lid, however you like, I use Posi-Taps, or you can strip and solder. Except those Scotchlocks…not reliable IMO.
  • You can add a ground wire here, I think I tapped into the reverse or common ground wire here, to keep the same ground as the reverse lamp.
  • Remove both trunk “arm” trims and the trunk trim panel. Clips on the trunk arms are the “push in to release” type that you reset for install after removal.
  • You will see wiring harness running into the trunk lid, follow it into the trunk so you can see where it has slack and how it articulates as the lid opens/closes.
  • Run your reverse light wiring along this way, secure with zip ties so it follows the wiring harness going into the lid and moves with it. Bring the wiring into the lid and up to near the license plate area of the trunk lid.
  • Remove the trunk button/reverse camera plastic unit. Two torx bolts on exterior.
  • Here you want to plan out the mounting of the light units, on either side of the button/camera trim. Mounting the units evenly to either side of the trim will make them offset to the car. I was OK with that, rather than space the left unit out to be even, where the longer exposed wire harness portion may be visible, look less neat. Use your own taste/judgement there.
  • To run the wiring under the trim, you need to strip some of the sheathing, it’s too thick with the sheath, but the wires themselves are super thin so strip the portion that will “sneak” under the trim. It’s cheap $13 Chinese LED units, with super thin aluminum wire. This is where I accidentally cut the wire on one of the units, stripping the sheathing with an X-acto blade, so be careful!
  • Once you’ve got that, clean the area for mounting, and mount the light units (with foam mounting tape, I forget it it was included, but make sure you have it either way). Run the wires into the trunk lid behind the button/camera unit, and if you stripped the sheathing correctly, the wires should run in under, and get clamped down by bolting the button/camera panel back on. (I considered the risk the wires ground out on the metal if the insulation gets damaged. I reasoned that they get clamped down by the panel, and shouldn’t move/rub once installed, so as long as you are careful on install this should be fine IMO, no problems with that for me and it’s been a while)
  • Join the LED unit wires together, then join them to your reverse (+) and (-) you ran up into the trunk lid. Posi-loks for me, but use your favorite stuff. Secure the new wiring with zip ties, harness tape, sheathing whatever you like to keep everything neat and out of the way. Plenty of room to loop and tuck any slack inside the lid frame.
  • Test that they work (If no one else around, e-brake will hold in reverse with engine running, IIRC that was the only way to test, to get the reverse lights to come on)
  • Reinstall all trim panels, and enjoy!

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