I’d like to chime in here on a couple things.
1. The A-Pillar does indeed have a side curtain, and the A-Pillar requires Removal, to run a wire behind that curtain.
2. How did you route the B-Pillar?
3. Does the C-Pillar or D-Pillar have a side curtain in the XC90s? Like the A-Pillar, you cannot simply “tuck the wire”. Into the trim – I don’t own a 2022 XC60 and cannot find a schematic of where the airbags sit.
Corrections You need to Undertake:
Your rear camera needs to mount ON the rear windshield in between the rear defrost lines. The current position of the camera is going to have an obstructed view as a result of those defrost lines. You want this camera to capture plates and details, not obstructions. If the adhesive pad is too wide to place in between the defrost lines, you can trim it down to make it fit before mounting.
Parking Mode / Hardwire
Here’s what I came across regarding your fuses in the glove compartment: Fuses under glovebox | Fuses | Maintenance and service | XC60 2022 Early | Volvo Support
Hardwire kits use a voltage cutoff for the battery.
12.6 = 100%
12.4 = 75%
12.2 = 50 %
12.0 = 25%
11.8 = 0 %
Hardwiring with a voltage cutoff will not kill your battery. It will shorten the life some since parking mode runs off the battery, but it will NOT kill it.
Try to see if any of the unused fuses are “HOT” when the car is off. None of the fuses listed in the manual seem like “Good Options” to tap into because they contain electronics or safety systems, which you need to avoid.
Fuse Taps: I’ve seen a lot of debate on this topic on whether fuses have polarity. Basically a dash camera uses about .5 amps. So it’s a low voltage draw. Depending on the gauge of the wire o the hardwire kit, generally a 5 or 7.5 amp will go up top and the factory fuse on the bottom closest to the fuse box.
The argument for having the left leg hot is that should the dash camera have a problem, it’ll trip the camera’s fuse instead of tripping the vehicle’s fuse. Thus protecting the camera and car itself. Whereas, if the right leg is hot, the cameras fuse runs in line with the vehicle. So if the camera has an issue, it’ll end up tripping the vehicle’s fuse instead of the fuse protecting the camera.
With a test light you need to pull out the fuse and poke one of the two legs till it lights up. The leg that lights up will be hot 12v, you might need to turn the key if its switched ACC/IGN.
There are two orientations/positions of using the fuse tap but either works for a low current draw of the dashcam.
Position A – the most common way used. It ‘taps’ before the factory fuse to create a new circuit. Its not recommended to put a high current load in this way as it will be possible exceed the factory wiring ampacity.
Position B – the new fuse runs inline after the factory fuse. The safe method as you will never exceed the factory wiring.
